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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.